• 专利附录
  • 专利说明
  • 权利要求
  • 类似技术
  • 同族专利
  • 引用文献
  • 法律状态
  • 优先权
    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising: a) the application on said keratinous fibers of a composition having a pH greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C., and comprising at least an amino acid and a polyol; b) followed by a step of smoothing / straightening the keratinous fibers by means of a smoothing iron at a temperature of at least 100 ° C.
    公开号:FR3030241A1
    申请号:FR1463222
    申请日:2014-12-23
    公开日:2016-06-24
    发明作者:Sebastien Voisin；Nicolas Daubresse
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The present invention relates to a process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprising the application of a composition comprising at least one amino acid and a polyol and a method for treating keratin fibers. a step of smoothing / straightening by means of a smoothing iron. In the hair field, consumers want to have compositions to make a temporary change to their hair, and aiming for a good performance of the effect achieved. In general, it is desired that the change persists shampoos for at least 15 days, or more depending on the nature of the change. Heat treatments are generally used to change the shape of the hair, in a sustainable way. These treatments allow a visual modification of the appearance of the hairstyle, associating a decrease of the degree of curling, a reduction of the overall volume of the hairstyle, a decrease of the frizzotis, a gain in discipline, a smoother visual aspect, a substantial gain shine, resistance to moisture and heat for maintaining the hairstyle all day long. Moreover, this type of treatment has the advantage of facilitating the daily care of the hair, with the use of less care products, including rinsed care such as conditioners or masks, or care rinsed such as serums, skincare creams or balms, disciplinary foams. Hair drying is facilitated, with a greatly shortened brushing time and a reduction in the daily use of flat tongs, in both time and intensity. This thus makes it possible to limit the risks of damage to the hair by combined factors of mechanical and thermal stress. To these heat treatments, we associate several technologies. A first technology relies on the use of compositions based on thiol reducers. These technologies require a rigorous respect of the conditions of application recommended by the suppliers, in particular in terms of quantity and time of break. In addition, they may be contraindicated on hair too sensitized and not be compatible with the same day application of other treatments such as staining or discoloration. They are otherwise smelly. Another technology relies on the use of formalin (or formaldehyde) based compositions and its derivatives. These treatments have the particularity to be robust, perfectly compatible with all other conventional hair treatments, such as thiol smoothing mentioned above, alkaline straightening, coloring or discoloration of all types, made before or after. They give the hair an excellent discipline, a very strong shine and an ease of care in everyday life. However, in case of repetition of applications, new hair damage appears that can lead to hair breakage. In addition, for toxicological reasons, the use of some of these compounds is now prohibited and / or regulated. So we are looking more and more to avoid the use of such substances, which can be aggressive for the hair and other keratin materials. Another technology relies on the use of acid-based compositions, and particularly on the use of glyoxylic acid. It has thus been proposed, by the application WO2011 / 104282, a new method for semipermanently smoothing the hair, consisting in applying a solution of alphaketoacid on the hair for 15 to 120 minutes, then drying and finally smoothing with iron at a temperature of about 200 ° C, the hair. The alpha-ketoacid used is preferably glyoxylic acid. However, it has been found that glyoxylic acid may not be well tolerated, particularly when the scalp is sensitive and / or irritated. Its volatility, amplified by the use of iron heat, can also be a problem. Moreover, the compositions of the prior art can alter the hair and / or alter the color.
    [0002] It has also been proposed treatments using a composition comprising a base associated with a heat treatment to smooth the hair. Such treatments make it possible to obtain a good relaxation of the loops but can lead to alterations of the hair fiber. The document EP1837010 notably describes a smoothing / straightening process using a composition comprising sodium hydroxide and a heat treatment. WO2007 / 144707 discloses a smoothing / straightening process using a composition comprising a non-hydroxylated base such as monoethanolamine, ethylene diamine, associated with a heat treatment. WO2009 / 117344 also describes a smoothing / straightening method using a composition comprising a non-hydroxylated base and a protein denaturant associated with a heat treatment. To limit the alterations of the hair fibers, it has also been proposed to use compositions comprising weak acids at alkaline pH associated with a heat treatment. The document WO2010 / 049434 for example describes a smoothing / straightening process in which a composition comprising a dicarboxylic acid such as maleic acid and a heat treatment is applied.
    [0003] There is still a need to develop a method of hair treatment, including a smoothing / straightening method that allows smoothing / straightening and / or reducing hair curling effectively and sustainably by limiting hair degradation.
    [0004] The Applicant has now discovered that the use of a composition having a pH greater than or equal to 8 and comprising at least one amino acid and a polyol associated with a smoothing step with a straightener at a temperature of at least 100 ° C achieved the desired properties of sustainable smoothing. Thus, an object of the present invention is a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising a) the application to the keratin fibers of a composition having a pH greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C. and comprising at least one amino acid and at least one polyol, b) followed by a smoothing / straightening step of the keratinous fibers by means of a smoothing iron at a temperature of at least 100 ° C.
    [0005] The method of the invention makes it possible in particular to obtain a good relaxation of loops, durable, while limiting the degradation of the hair. Other features and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more". As indicated above, the process for treating keratinous fibers according to the invention comprises a) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one amino acid. The amino acid may be chosen from the following amino acids of formula (I) and (II), as well as their betaines forms, their optical isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their acid or base salts, organic or inorganic: ## STR2 ## Formulas (I) and (II) in which: R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear C 1 -C 5 alkyl group; or branched, preferably linear, said alkyl group being optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino, -C (O) -OH, -S (O) 2 -OH, -C (O) -O-, M +, -S (O) 2-0-, M +, with M + representing a cationic counterion such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, - n is 0 or 1. In the composition containing them, the acid or acids Amines may be in their non-ionized form (I), (II) or in their ionized or betaine (I ') or (II') form: NH n NH 2 O-n NH 3 + n O (I) n HOS n NH 2 NH 3 + (II) (III) Formulas in which R represents an atom of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group, an amino group, or a carboxylate group, n is 0 or 1. The amino acid (s) or their (s) salt (s) may be selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, carnitine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, N phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta-alanine, taurine, lysine, arginine and their salts, in particular sodium glycinate, sodium alanilate, sodium serinate, lithium beta-alaninate, sodium taurate, preferably glycine, alanine and serine, and preferably is glycine.
    [0006] The amino acid (s) of the invention are preferably selected from the so-called "neutral" or so-called "acidic" amino acids. "Neutral amino acids" means amino acids which have a pH at room temperature (25 ° C) in water ranging from 5 to 7 inclusive. Acidic amino acids are amino acids which contain a pH at ambient, in water less than 5.
    [0007] Preferably, the amino acids of the invention comprise a number of amino groups less than or equal to the number of acid groups.
    [0008] More preferably, the amino acid (s) is (are) chosen from among the amino acids of formula (1). Even more preferentially, the amino acid (s) is (are) chosen from among the amino acids of formula (1) in which R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 5 alkyl group. or branched, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, or a carboxylate group, n is 0 or 1. The at least one amino acid (s) or their salt (s) is (are) preferentially chosen (s) among glycine, alanine, serine, beta-alanine and taurine, sodium glycinate, sodium alaninate, sodium serinate, lithium betaalaninate, sodium taurate, preferably glycine. The amino acid (s) is (are) present in the composition in a content ranging from 1.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition. The composition used in the process of the invention may comprise at least one basifying agent or an acidifying agent. The alkalinizing agent (s) may be selected from inorganic or organic alkaline agents. According to a particular embodiment, the alkalinizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide. magnesium hydroxide, preferably from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, more preferably sodium hydroxide. According to another particular embodiment, the alkalinizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from among the conjugate bases of formula (Ib) and (Ib) of the amino acid of formula (1) ) or (11): ## EQU1 ## Formula (Ib) and (Ib) in which R, n and M + are as defined above. When they are present, the basifying agent (s) is (are) present in the composition in a content ranging from 1.5 to 15% by weight. preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Mn NH2 The acidifying agent (s) may be chosen from inorganic or organic acids. The mineral acid can be chosen from hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and orthophosphoric acid. Preferably, the mineral acid may be selected from hydrochloric acid and orthophosphoric acid. The organic acid may be chosen from hydroxy acids, in particular from citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, tartaric acid and malic acid, and more preferably from lactic acid and glycolic acid. When (they) are (are) present, the acidifying agent (s) is (are) present in the composition in a content ranging from 1.5 to 15% by weight preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the amino acid molar ratio of formula (1) or (11) on its conjugate base (Ib) or (Ib) ranges from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 10.
    [0009] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol. Preferably, the polyol has a molecular weight of less than 300, preferably less than 200. Preferably, the polyol comprises between 2 and 6 hydroxyl groups. The polyols which may be used in the context of the present invention are preferably of formula: ## STR1 ## in which: R'2, R R'4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl C1-C6 radical; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical; comprising 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and optionally 1 to 9 oxygen atoms, but no hydroxyl group, - m denotes 0 or 1. A first group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of formula above for which m = 0 such as 1,2,3-propanetriol (glycerin), diglycerine, propylene glycol (or 1,2-propanediol), dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pinacol (2,3-propanediol) dimethyl 2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol, octane-2-diol and sorbitol. A second group of preferred polyols is composed of the polyols of formula above for which m = 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3, R'4 denote, independently of one another, an atom of hydrogen or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; such as polyethylene glycols, especially those having from 4 to 9 ethylene oxide groups such as for example the products named PEG-6 or PEG-8 (CTFA name). A third group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of formula above for which m = 1 and R'1, R'2, R'3, R'4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom. hydrogen, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a C1-C6 mono or polyhydroxyalkyl radical, and A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms; such as 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3 methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol) and hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2-yl); , 4-pentanediol) and even more preferably hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols more particularly chosen from glycerin, diglycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, 1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, propane diol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the polyol (s) in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0010] The composition according to the invention may also further comprise one or more thickeners. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickening agent" is understood to mean an agent which, by virtue of its presence in the composition, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs, preferably at least 200 cPs, at 25 ° C and at a shear rate of 1s-1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plane viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or the like). The thickening agent (s) may be chosen from fatty acid amides obtained from C 10 -C 30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or monoethanolamide of coconut acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide). oxyethylenated), polymeric thickeners and in particular polysaccharides, especially cellulosic polymers as described below, gum arabic, gums of microbial origin (scleroglucan gum), homopolymers and crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, associative polymers as described below, and mixtures thereof. By "cellulosic" polymer is meant according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues united by f3-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
    [0011] Thus, the cellulosic polymers of the invention may be selected from unsubstituted celluloses including microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulosic polymers, there are cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters. Among the cellulose ethers, there are (C1 -6) alkylcelluloses and in particular methyl hydroxyethylcelluloses.
    [0012] Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulphates or phosphates, etc.), cellulose organic esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates, etc.). and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetate and acetate sulphates and cellulose acetate propionates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulphates. Preferably, the cellulosic polymer is chosen from (C1-06) alkylcelluloses and in particular methyl hydroxyethylcelluloses. The associative polymer or polymers that may be used according to the invention are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
    [0013] The associative polymer or polymers that may be used according to the invention may be of the anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic type, such as the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich (INCI: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer ), SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.
    [0014] Among all the thickening agents mentioned, the thickening agent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from polymers, better still from polysaccharides, and even more preferably from cellulose polymers, in particular from (C1 -6) alkylcelluloses and in particular methyl hydroxyethylcelluloses.
    [0015] When they are present, the thickening agents are (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more silicones, and especially one or more amino silicones. By aminosilicone is meant any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. Amino silicones which can be used in the context of the invention include polysiloxanes, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, amino silicones proposed by the company VVACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652 or under the name Fluid VVR 1300®. It is also possible to use amino silicones in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, such as the amino silicone microemulsions proposed under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® (BELSIL ADM LOG 10) by the company VVACKER. Mention may also be made of DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid, or alternatively quaternary ammonium silicones and polyoxyalkylenated multiblock amino silicones, such as those sold under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A + by Momentive. When they are present, the amino silicone (s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight. 25% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the composition used in the process of the invention is greater than or equal to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition ranges from 8 to 12 and more preferably from 9 to 11. Preferably, the pH of the composition composition is less than two units of the pKa relating to the equilibrium of the amino acid of formula (I) or (11) with its base (Ib) or (11b). The composition used in the process of the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. It is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration ranging from 10 to 99%, more preferably from 30 to 99%, more preferably from 50 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0016] The composition may especially comprise one or more organic solvents different from the polyols according to the invention, especially water-soluble ones such as C1-C7 alcohols; mention may be made in particular of aliphatic monoalcohols in 0107, for example ethanol, or aromatic compounds in 06-07, which may be used alone or as a mixture with water. The composition used in the process of the invention may further comprise at least one usual cosmetic ingredient, especially chosen from propellants; the oils; solid fatty substances and in particular the esters of 0 8-040, the acids of 8-040; alcohols in 08-040, sunscreens; moisturizing agents; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; the charges; thickeners or gelling agents, polymeric or not other than the cellulosic polymers already mentioned; emulsifiers; polymers in particular conditioning or styling; the perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents. The composition may of course include several cosmetic ingredients listed above. Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the usual cosmetic ingredients may be present in customary amounts, easily determinable by those skilled in the art, and which may be included, for each ingredient, between 0.01 to 80% by weight . Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. The compositions used in the process according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution or suspension, or an oily solution; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the HIE, W / O or multiple type; a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or any other cosmetic form.
    [0017] These compositions may be packaged in pump bottles or in aerosol containers, in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form (lacquer) or in the form of foam. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray or a mousse, for the treatment of hair. In these cases, the composition preferably comprises at least one propellant.
    [0018] The composition which has just been described can be applied to dry or wet hair, preferably on dry hair. The bath ratio of the applied composition can vary from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.2 to 5, and preferably from 0.5 to 3. Relative bath ratio is the ratio of the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of keratinous fibers to be treated. As indicated above, the step of applying the composition which has just been described is followed by a step of smoothing / straightening the keratinous fibers by means of a smoothing iron also called flat tongs. The smoothing iron is used at a temperature of at least 100 ° C, preferably at a temperature between, inclusive, 100 ° C and 300 ° C, preferably between 120 ° C and 280 ° C, preferably still between 150 ° C and 250 ° C, and even better, between 200 and 250 ° C. The method of the invention may comprise other intermediate steps aimed at improving the smoothing of keratin fibers.
    [0019] In particular, the application stage of the composition may be followed by a laying time The exposure time, namely the contact time of the composition on the hair, is preferably at least 5 minutes, preferably between 10 and 60 minutes, preferably between 15 and 45 minutes, a rinsing of the hair may optionally be provided after the application of the composition and possibly the exposure time, the hair may then be dewatered or not, preferably dried A drying step in the hair dryer, associated or not with brush straightening (brushing) may be provided before the smoothing step with a smoothing iron.
    [0020] According to one particular embodiment, smoothing with the iron to be smoothed is carried out in several passages on the hair, in general 3 to 10 passes. According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention comprising the steps of applying the composition according to the invention to the hair, then of smoothing with iron is carried out one or more times, spaced (s) or not by a or several cosmetic treatments, preferably a shampoo, until the desired form or intensity of shape is obtained. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.
    [0021] EXAMPLES The following compositions 1 to 12 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below, all the amounts being indicated in percent by weight of material as is with respect to the total weight of the composition. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Glycine 3.5 (0.47M) 3.5 (0.47M) 3.5 (0.47M) 3.5 (0.47M) 3.5 (0.47M) 3.5 (0.47M) 30% Soda MA 3.5 (0.26M) 3.5 (0.26M) 3.5 (0.26M) 3.5 (0.26M) 3.5 (0.26M) 3.5 (0.26M) Ethanol 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Propylene glycol 5.0 1,3-propanediol 5.0 glycerin 5.0 diglycerine 5.0 2- methy1-1,3-propanediol 5,0 sorbitol 5,0 Methyl hydroxyethylcellulose (Akzo Nobel structure 8,000 M CEL) 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 1,0 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Trideceth-10 (VVacker's BELSIL ADM LOG 1) - 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 pH 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 Relaxation after 10 shampoos ++ + ++ ++ +++ +++ 5 7 8 9 10 11 12 Glycine 3.5 (0.47M) 3.5 (0 , 47M) 3.5 (0.47M) 3.5 (0.47M) 3.5 (0.47M) 2.0 (0.15M) Soda at 30% MA 3.5 (0.26M) 3, (0.26M) 3.5 (0.26M) 3.5 (0.26M) 3.5 (0.26M) 2.0 (0.15M) Ethanol 10.0 10.0 10.0 0 10.0 10.0 1,3-propanediol 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycerin 2.0 Diglycerin 2.0 2.0 2-Methyl-1,3-propanediol 5.0 Hexylene glycol 10 , 0 Di propylene glycol 10.0 Methyl hydroxyethylcellulose (Akzo Nobel structure 8000 M CEL) 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Trideceth10 (BELSIL ADM LOG 1 of VVacker) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 PEG-40 / PPG-8 methylaminopropyl / hydroxypyropyl dimethicone copolymer (SI LSOFT A + LT of Momentive Performance Material) 1.0 Water Qsp Qsp Qsp Qsp Qs 100 Qs 100 100 100 100 100 pH 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 9.9 Relaxation after 10 shampoos ++ +++ +++ + + + +++: strong relaxation ++ The compositions 1 to 12 according to the invention were applied to strands of natural dry curly Caucasian hair, 2.7 g and 20 cm long with 5 to 7 loops. After 30 minutes, the hair was dried in the hair dryer (blow dry) and then smoothed by the passage of flat tongs brought to 210 ° C (10 passes per wick). They were then subjected to 10 shampoos.
    [0022] For each wick, the loop relaxation was measured, namely the wick length difference before and after treatment (including shampoos). It can be seen that with the process of the invention in which compositions 1 to 12 have been applied, a good loosening of the loops after shampooing is obtained. The method according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain good relaxation of loops, which is durable.
    权利要求:
    Claims (4)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. A method of treating keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising: a) applying to said keratinous fibers a composition having a pH greater than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C, and comprising at least one amino acid and at least one minus one polyol, b) followed by a step of smoothing / straightening the keratinous fibers by means of a smoothing iron at a temperature of at least 100 ° C.
    [0002]
    2. Process according to claim 1, in which the amino acid is chosen from the following amino acids of formula (I) and (II), as well as their betaines forms, their optical isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their salts. bases or acids, organic or inorganic: O H2 (I) Formulas (I) and (II) in which: - R represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, preferably linear, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from hydroxyl, amino, -C (O) -OH, -8 (O) 2 -OH, M +, -8 (O) 2-O-, M +, with M + representing a cationic counterion such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium, - n is 0 or 1.
    [0003]
    3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one basifying agent or at least one acidifying agent.
    [0004]
    4. Process according to claim 3, characterized in that the alkalinizing agent is chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and preferably, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide. HO HO-5. Process according to Claims 2 and 3, characterized in that the basifying agent is chosen from the conjugate bases of formula (Ib) and (11b) of the amino acid of the following formula (I) or (II): wherein R, n, and M + are as defined in claim 2. A process according to claim 3, characterized in that acidifying agent is chosen from a mineral acid, preferably chosen from hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, and an organic acid, preferably chosen from hydroxy acids, in particular from citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and more preferably lactic acid and glycolic acid. 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino acid is chosen from the amino acids of formula (1) as well as their betaines forms, their optical isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their salts. bases or acids, organic or mineral. 8. Method according to the preceding claim characterized in that the amino acid molar ratio of formula (1) or (11) on its conjugate base (Ib) or (11b) ranges from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 10. 9 Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino acid is neutral or acidic. 10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino acid is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, carnitine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta alanine, taurine, lysine arginine and their salts, in particular sodium glycinate, sodium alanilate, sodium serinate, lithium betaalaninate, sodium taurate, preferably glycine, alanine and serine, and preferably glycine. 11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino acid is present in the composition in a content ranging from 1.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Process according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pH of the composition is less than two units of the pKa of the equilibrium of the amino acid of formula (I) or (11) with its base (Ib) or (11b), preferably less than one. 13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pH of the composition is from 8 to 12, preferably from 9 to 11. 14. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that that the polyol has a molecular weight of less than 300, preferably less than 200. 15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol comprises between 2 and 6 hydroxyl groups. 16. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from glycerine, diglycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, 1,3-propanediol and 2-methyl-1. , 3-propane diol, hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof. 17. Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein said polyols are present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight. by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one thickening agent, preferably chosen from among the polymers, preferably from polysaccharides, and even better from cellulose polymers, in particular from (C 1 -C 8) ) alkylcelluloses and especially methyl hydroxyethylcelluloses. 19. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one or more ingredients selected from nonionic surfactants, preferably polyethoxylated, and preferably amino silicones. 20. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the smoothing step is carried out by means of a smoothing iron at a temperature between, inclusive limits, 100 ° C and 300 ° C, of preferably between 120 ° C and 280 ° C, more preferably between 150 ° C and 250 ° C.
    类似技术:
    公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题
    EP2916806B1|2018-12-26|Method for straightening the hair using a composition containing glyoxylic acid and/or a derivative thereof
    EP1627625B1|2009-09-09|Cosmetic composition based on a cationic surfactant, an aminosilicone, a fatty alcohol and a propellant
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    EP2036536A1|2009-03-18|Hair treatment including the application of a polyamine and a fatty acid
    FR2779640A1|1999-12-17|COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING A CATIONIC POLYMER AND AN ACRYLIC TERPOLYMER AND USE OF THIS COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATERIALS
    FR3030240A1|2016-06-24|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AMINO ACID
    CH630525A5|1982-06-30|COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR HAIR TREATMENT.
    FR2986704A1|2013-08-16|COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS AND COMPOSITION COMPRISING A GLYOXYLIC ACID ESTER
    FR2891142A1|2007-03-30|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ORGANIC SILICON COMPOUND, AND HAIR FORMING PROCESS
    FR2891141A1|2007-03-30|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ORGANIC SILICON COMPOUND, AND HAIR FORMING PROCESS
    FR3030241A1|2016-06-24|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AMINO ACID AND A POLYOL
    FR2976800A1|2012-12-28|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORGANIC COMPOUND OF THE SILICON AND AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR AMPHOTERIC POLYMER
    FR2999077B1|2019-06-07|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT, A CATIONIC TEN-SIOACTIVE, A LIQUID FATTY ESTER AND A PARTICULAR SILICONE, AND PRO-CEDED OF COSMETIC TREATMENT
    FR2811895A1|2002-01-25|A composition for use as a hair shampoo or skin wash, comprises starch betainate and a detergent surfactant in a cosmetically acceptable medium
    FR3068241A1|2019-01-04|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF PARTICULAR CARBOXY-LIQUID SURFACTANTS, NONIONIC AND AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS, AND CATIONIC PO-LYMERS, COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD AND USE
    EP1126817A1|2001-08-29|Cleansing cosmetic compositions and use
    EP2916805B1|2018-07-18|Composition comprising a dicarbonyl compound and method for smoothing the hair using this composition
    FR2976801A1|2012-12-28|Cosmetic composition comprises amphoteric polymers comprising e.g. repetition of units obtained from monomer of |acrylamide type and |acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and conditioning agents comprising plant oils
    JP2022506375A|2022-01-17|Two-component system for smoothing and caring for hair
    FR3046065A1|2017-06-30|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH A COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR ALKALI AGENT AND A SULFONE
    FR3009681A1|2015-02-20|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS FROM A HYDROALCOHOLIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MONO ORGANIC ACID
    FR3009954A1|2015-03-06|SPRAYABLE FOAM-FORMING COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ANTIPELLICULAR AGENT, A CATIONIC POLYMER, A SURFACTANT AND A PROPELLANT
    FR2984161A1|2013-06-21|Composition used for cleaning body/conditioning hair, comprises hydrophobically modified cellulose having hydrophobic group, and liquid fatty alcohol, where modified cellulose comprises main chain constituted by nonionic cellulose ether
    EP2243467A2|2010-10-27|Rinse-out cosmetic composition comprising elastomeric film-forming polymers, use thereof for conditioning keratin materials
    FR3083099A1|2020-01-03|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING FATTY ACIDS, ANIONIC AND AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS, AND ESSENTIAL OILS, COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD AND USE
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3030241B1|2016-12-23|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    EP0723772A1|1995-01-30|1996-07-31|L'oreal|Reducing composition bared on a basic amino acid and a cationic polymer|
    WO2007135299A1|2006-05-24|2007-11-29|L'oreal|Method for straightening keratinous fibers using heating means and an acid derivative|
    WO2009117344A2|2008-03-19|2009-09-24|L'oreal|Use of a composition and process involving the use of a non-hydroxide base and a protein denaturant with heat for relaxing or straightening hair|
    WO2012027369A2|2010-08-23|2012-03-01|Diversapack Of California, Llc|System and method for straightening or shaping hair|
    US20120121526A1|2010-11-12|2012-05-17|Hohenstein Karen A|Composition and method for long-lasting non-permanentstraightening of human hair|
    US20120230935A1|2011-03-08|2012-09-13|Somang Cosmetics Co., Ltd.|Solvent composition for one-step permanent wave and hair straightener|WO2019012219A1|2017-07-11|2019-01-17|Di Visco|New composition for straightening hair|
    FR3068890A1|2017-07-11|2019-01-18|Di Visco|NEW COMPOSITION FOR THE SMOOTHING OF HAIR|
    FR3095756A1|2019-05-07|2020-11-13|L'oreal|PROCESS FOR SMOOTHING KERATINIC FIBERS FROM A COMPOSITION CONTAINING AN AMINO ACID|
    法律状态:
    2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-06-24| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160624 |
    2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1463222A|FR3030241B1|2014-12-23|2014-12-23|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AMINO ACID AND A POLYOL|FR1463222A| FR3030241B1|2014-12-23|2014-12-23|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AMINO ACID AND A POLYOL|
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